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The signet started life as a seal: the face was pressed into wax to close a letter. That is where the flat surface came from, along with the tradition of engraving initials or a crest on it.

Types of face

  • plain, no ornament, the most versatile
  • engraved: an initial, a date, your own mark
  • stone-set, usually onyx or a dark quartz
  • crest or a stamped pattern

Which finger, which width

Traditionally a signet goes on the little finger of the left hand, though today it lands on the ring finger just as often. Proportion matters more than custom: a 20 mm face overwhelms a slim hand, while 12 mm disappears on a large one. Start at 14 to 16 mm if you are unsure.

Size

Measure your finger in the evening. A signet usually has a wide shank, so take half a size up compared with a plain band.

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Signet rings in gold-plated 925 silver: plain, engraved, onyx and crest designs. Faces from 12 to 20 mm wide.